Inseaming thread

I had some questions yesterday about why the upper is laced to the insole and what I do with the excess thread, so I’m going to explain that a little more. Keep in mind that what I’m showing you is traditional cowboy boot construction, not traditional shoe construction. This means that since I’m doing it on a shoe, both boot and shoe makers tell me I’m doing it wrong. 😁

This photo is a repeat from yesterday. The shoes are inseamed (welt leather piece that goes around the toe sewn on by hand) and the shoe upper is laced into the insole in the shank and heel area.
Here I’ve filled in the depression to make the bottom of the shoe level again, positioned the metal shank, and covered it with a thin layer of leather. Then I used the excess thread to lace the shank tightly into the shoe. Each crossover of lacing is anchored in the visible stitching that was done yesterday when I laced the upper to the insole. 

About customboots

I'm a custom cowboy boot maker. I own a business, Sorrell Custom Boots, and I create bespoke cowboy boots using vintage machinery and hand tools. I also own, a company that specializes in tools, supplies, and leather for the boot and shoe making trade.
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