Monthly Archives: August 2023

When I draw a design, I draw the stitch lines. In other words, if I’m drawing an element that will be inlaid, the pattern line isn’t where I’ll cut, it’s where I’ll stitch. If I drew the line where I … Continue reading →

All the inlay/overlay pieces are cut and skived for this pair of boots. You’ll notice that the pink pieces are carefully cut to their final shape and the other bits of leather are amorphous blobs. That’s because the pink pieces … Continue reading →

I know several boot makers who are using lasers to cut their intricate patterns and since I’m not the boss of boot making I have no desire to try and make them stop it. But I always think, “WHERE’S THE … Continue reading →

Trimming the shank area after laying the soles is one of my favorite things. It’s challenging to do accurately and get both boots to match, there are zero second chances, it’s difficult to explain and teach, and the curves are … Continue reading →

Today I customized two pairs of lasts and worked on patterns for the next two pairs of boots I’ll be making. 

I made these boots in 2009. They’re a triad construction; the boot tops extend all the way to the sole. A triad is a three-piece boot — there’s the vamp (foot part), the front boot tops, and the back boot … Continue reading →

I made a pair of full alligator boots for a client one time and I named them “Amos Moses.”

Remember how I said that I enjoy inseaming (sewing on the welt) and that I look forward to doing it? This boot tested me. I pulled a bristle off, broke my awl, and discovered I’d gotten one stitch too high after … Continue reading →

See the pieces of heavy thread laying over each boot? The thread used to sew on the welt is tapered at each end so it can be attached to a bristle, and it’s waxed with a sticky wax first so … Continue reading →